So you think you want to do agility?

You may have seen it on television, perhaps Crufts, Olympia or one of those shows where they showcase mad people obsessed with some unusual activity. But how on earth do you get to be a mad person obsessed with agility? Alas, all too easily!

First seen as a display at Crufts in 1978, it was an instant hit, and here we are nearly three decades on and agility is a hugely popular international sport.

So what is Agility?

Dog agility involves the dog negotiating anything up to 20 obstacles, on a course designed by the judge, against the clock. The fastest clear round is the winner, although practice is to place to 10% of the class (so if the entry is 100, places will go down to 10th) plus rosettes for unplaced clear rounds. Faults are incurred for all errors as well as exceeding the course time, and there are several ways of getting eliminated too. The two main types of class are agility and jumping (jumping classes do not have contact equipment in them, agility classes do), but there are many other types of fun class. If you do not want to compete, there is still no reason why you cannot train your dog, most clubs will have a mix of competing and non-competing members. However, be aware that a lot of handlers started out doing it just for fun!

How do you get started?

First, find a dog. Although you see a lot of collies competing in agility, it is an urban myth that you have to have a collie to do well, and your crossbreed, terrier, lurcher, or pedigree is just as likely to do well enough for you to enjoy the competition. The most important thing, is that you have a dog you can live with and form a relationship with - if not, then you will not be able to maintain control in the ring, as simple as that. You will find it hard enough to maintain control in the ring WITH a good relationship! Basic training is also important. There are a growing number of dual purpose dogs that compete successfully in both agility and obedience, but the majority of dogs are trained to a good standard of control. This means having a good recall, drop on command, sit, down, wait and attention commands. Your club should be able to help you with any training needs, and be aware that they may require you to complete a basic training course before they accept you onto an agility training course.

Choosing a training club

The best way to find a good agility club is by word of mouth and personal recommendation: if you have a friend who can point you in the direction of good training, it will save a lot of leg work! If that is not a possibility, then be prepared to go along and watch lessons before you sign up - if the club or trainer is reluctant to, then don't bother! Most good trainers will not have a problem with answering questions or letting you observe their methods. Contact details for clubs can be found from the Kennel Club on 0870 6066750, who will be able to provide you with a list of Kennel Club registered clubs in your area.
Clubs and other training groups can also be found on AgilityNet.

Do be aware though, that Kennel Club registration or not is no indicator of the standard of training you will receive, nor is the cost! Some very, very good trainers charge minimal fees through a club facility. Again, this is where word of mouth comes in, as unfortunately anyone can set up as a dog trainer, so if your potential club or trainer has many satisfied customers, it's a good sign. Some KC registered clubs have been around for many, many years, but the agility sections may still only be run by inexperienced people. Things to look for are how long people have been training, experience of different breeds and size of dog, class sizes, motivation methods (look for positive, reward based training) and the atmosphere of classes. Go with your instincts: if there is something about the set up you don't like, or you don't feel you would get on with your instructor, look elsewhere, there are plenty of clubs around. Just because a trainer does not compete/is not senior does not mean they will be no good as a trainer, although keeping in touch with competition may help as it enables trainers to know what is in fashion in terms of obstacle combinations and handling. Conversely if you have ambitions and potential to compete at the highest level, you need to find someone with the experience to challenge you and provide you with that level of training.

Be aware that some clubs may have waiting lists or only have new starter courses at certain times of year, while others only accept people who wish to compete. This does not mean that they are not good clubs, simply that they serve a particular market!

The Agility Club runs an instructor's training course and exam, so don't forget to ask if the trainers are ACAI qualified.

Once you have started training

It is impossible to say how long it takes to train a dog to competition standard. They all learn at different speeds, even within the same breed, and a lot depends on the training methods used. For example, a dog will learn quicker from a one-to-one session than a weekly group session for an hour. Having a little back garden equipment will help, which your trainer will be able to advise you on. A couple of jumps and some "stick in the ground" weaves are plenty to help you get started. Weaves in particular can benefit from a brief daily session, but it is not the end of the world if it is not possible to have your own pieces of kit.

Under Kennel Club rules, a dog is able to compete at 18 months, but please bear in mind this is applied across 190 different breeds of dog and innumerable crossbreeds of every size and shape, and it is unadvisable to start competing with a dog that has not finished growing, as this could lead to ill-health in the future. If in doubt, seek advice from a knowledgeable vet, breeder, trainer or perhaps experienced handler of your particular breed. Ideally, your dog needs to be able to negotiate all of the equipment confidently: don't be tempted to enter a show if you intend to run past the weaves or seesaw because you can't do them yet, you will only teach your dog to run past and it will become harder to retrain them not to. Some shows do run classes specifically aimed at absolute beginners, which may be called Allsorts, Anysize, Nursery or First Timers. Unaffiliated agility organisations will have their own set of rules, so check these before you enter.

Before you enter your first show, you may find it useful to attend a show to see what is going on. If you wish to take your dog, it must be entered Not For Competition (NFC). Contact the Show Secretary to see if this is acceptable and organise NFC entry. Or better still, if your own club or one nearby to you is running a show, volunteer to help on the day.

Before you enter a show

In order to compete at a Kennel Club licensed show, your dog must be registered with the Kennel Club. If you have a pedigree dog from a breeder, then the likelihood is that the dog is already registered, but will require transferring into your name. Your breeder should provide you with a certificate of registration, and by filling in the form on the back and submitting it to the Kennel Club with a fee, the ownership can be transferred. Unfortunately, only the breeder can register a dog this way, and then only if the parents of the pups are already registered. If you own a purebred dog that has not been previously registered, then it is treated the same as a rescue or cross.

If your dog is a rescue or crossbreed, the Kennel Club has a working register for dogs that do not qualify for the pedigree records. You will need to download a Form 5 from the Kennel Club website. The only exception to this is a Border Collie from ISDS (International Sheep Dog Society) registered lines. If your dog, or both its parents, or just the dam (but the sire MUST be KC registered). If you have an ISDS collie then you need a Form 9.

Other organisations, like UKA or EMDAC will have their own registration and/or membership rules, so check on their websites or seek advice from your training club.

You can have some fun with picking a Kennel Name for your dog. This is a name that is specific to him or her, which will be read out when you get placed at shows. There are several rules that apply. The name should consist of at least two words, and must not exceed 24 characters (spaces do not count). You may not use the names of notable persons, countries, cities or numerals, and should not use your surname. If in doubt, seek advice from the Kennel Club who will be happy to help you. You can put several choices of name down in case your first choice is taken, but make sure they are all names you can live with! You dog will have that name for life and there is no point wishing you'd never put "Big Ugly Splotch" down as an option once the dog is registered! One tip is to imagine your choice of name as if it is being read out at a prize giving, so for example, "In first place is Fred Smith with Very Good Boy", and see if you like the sound of it!

To enter a Kennel Club licensed show you will need to have your dog measured to ensure you compete at the correct height, either Small, Medium or Large. You can have your dog first measured from 15 months old. You will need a KC Agility Record book which the measurer will record your dogs height category in. These can be obtained from the Kennel Club website.

How to enter a show

Once your dog is registered and trained, you are ready to enter your first show! You will need a schedule; see our show diary page, and an entry form. In KC agility there are 7 Grades and if you have never competed in agility before, you will be eligible to enter any classes for which Grade 1 dogs are eligible, but be aware that the more grades that are listed for that class means you may be up against some very good dogs and experienced handlers. If you run a Small or Medium dog, you may find that some shows only schedule Grades 1- 7 classes for those heights.

In order to enter the show, you will need to fill in the entry form with your dog's registered name, number and which classes you wish to enter. Make sure you take notice of any instructions like "dogs may enter up to three classes", ie even if you are eligible for four or more classes, you must pick three of those to enter. You must then send this to the show secretary, or other nominated address, with your entry fees and if it is a two day show (or more!) then make sure you have included your camping, and a stamped addressed envelope if requested. If you have any questions about your entry, you can always get in touch with the show secretary, but please remember that he or she will get a lot of enquiries and will be very busy, particularly the closer it gets to the show date! You must also make sure that your entry is sent off well within the closing date, which will usually be at least a month before the date of the show. Entries that carry a postmark for that date will be accepted, but it is advisable to get your entry in earlier.

You may also like to take a copy of your entry form or make a note of the classes you've entered, just in case you forget what you wanted to do (especially if you have had a choice of classes). It is also worth getting proof of posting, so that if your entries get lost, the secretary will be able to help you out.

Usually about two weeks before the day of the show, you will have your running orders returned. This will consist of a ring card, which will have a large number on it. This is the number your dog has been given at this show, and is generally referred to as the "ring number", and will be on all paperwork related to your dog. On the back of the ring card you will find your running orders, which will consist of a list of the classes you have entered, may include a part number if the entry for that class is large and the class is split, and your running order number. It may look something like this:

Class 1         Large Grades 1&2 Jumping Part 1             r/o 136

If you do not receive your running orders prior to the show, then get in touch with the Show Secretary who will be able to look into it for you. However, do bear in mind that this is now the busiest period for the Secretary, so be polite and don't leave it near to the day of the show.

Before you set off

Make sure you are well prepared! As well as having your running orders with you, directions and anything else you have been sent, you may want to take food and other items to make your day more comfortable. You may have been sent an "order of judging" with your running orders - a list of which classes are being held in which rings and the order they come in. You might find it useful to highlight your runs, so you know which courses you will have to walk and which rings to go to. In addition to paperwork, make sure you are prepared for the weather - wet weather gear like Wellingtons and waterproofs are essential if the outlook is bad. The show will not stop for the weather and it will be a long, cold day if you get soaked to the skin in the first hour. Also, rain could make the surface slippery so you will need shoes with grip. You can purchase trainers with rubber studs on the soles at many shows and on agility websites, or you may be able to purchase hockey boots from a local sports shop. If you have football boots with metals studs, be very careful not to step on your dog's foot! A spare pair of socks makes all the difference - warm, dry feet will make the drive home easier!

Conversely, if it is very hot, you will need to provide shade for your dog. A white or preferably silver reflective sheet will help keep the heat off your car. Many agility handlers have crates in cars and vans, but there is very rarely an incident of dogs suffering distress in the heat. Seek advice if you are not sure, and if in any doubt, do not risk your dog overheating. You may also find a windbreak useful for providing shade and privacy behind your car, and a picnic blanket and/or folding chair - you will be doing a lot of waiting around for your runs, although you can of course watch other people running, and there is always someone willing to chat. Remember - at any show there are hundreds of people you have something in common with - Agility!

Shows normally have a burger bar or similar to provide refreshments and bacon sandwiches for breakfast are something of a tradition! However, vegetarian handlers may find their needs less well met, so you may wish to take a packed lunch. You can always enquire with the Show Secretary, or ask if anyone knows the food provisions. Most shows have the same caterers each year, so someone is bound to know. If you are attending with club-mates or friends, a picnic can be fun.

Obviously, don't forget treats and toys for your dog, and remember that he can only compete in a flat collar, so if he normally wears a half check, or has tags hanging, take a competition collar or make sure you remember to do it once at the show, or you will be eliminated if you run in the wrong collar. It may not be advisable to feed your dog before the competition as some dogs can suffer gastric problems by exercising on a full stomach - take advice from your vet or an experienced competitor, or alternatively just play safe and don't feed. Even if your dog is used to "breakfast", they shouldn't miss it too much on show days.

At the show

You will be directed into a parking spot (or camping unit, if you are there for more than one day) by stewards as you arrive. Once you are there, get your bearings, and work out where the rings and exercise area are, as well as toilets, refreshments etc! The courses should be set and walking for the first classes of the day, so if you have an early run, make sure you find the ring your class is in early.

You are allowed to walk the course you are competing on prior to the class starting - but once the first dog has run, you will not be allowed to walk it, even if they take a break. The reason you walk the course is to determine which way to go, and so you can work out how you want to handle it. Don't feel that you have to run the same way as everyone else - if you want to be on the left of the dog walk, but everyone else seems to be on the right, then don't be pressured into working that way - when it comes to your run, its just you and your dog, so you must be comfortable with what you are going to do! After you have walked all your early courses, you have nothing else to do but wait until it is time to run, so make sure your dog is comfortable and toileted, and get a coffee and some breakfast. Don't be tempted to keep your dog with you all day - he will become tired walking around the show all the time. Let him rest between runs, especially if he gets hyped or worried by the atmosphere.

Your running order determines what time you run - on average allow a minute per dog. So, if your running order is 66, you will be around an hour into the class. Jumping classes tend to go quicker, and some courses will run faster than others, so listen out for PA announcements telling you what each class is calling to. Or alternatively, there will be a caller at the ring who has a list of all the competitors for that class. Politely ask them what they are calling to. You do not have to run in numerical order, although some judges may ask for this in particularly small classes, or may ask people with low running orders to run before a certain time.

Once you have been booked in by the caller, join the queue. Once you get to the front of the queue, a pad steward will ask for your running order, and find the slip with your name on. The scribe will use this to record your results. The pad steward may also tell you when to get on the start line (eg "after the dog in front has gone through the tunnel"), if not use your common sense: don't get in anyone's way, but make sure that you don't leave the judge waiting as they invariably have a lot of dogs to get through! Once you are on the start line, the scribe will indicate that you can go by saying something like "in your own time" or "when you are ready". Then its time to take your lead (and collar if you are running without one) off, and away you go!

The ring party should ensure that your lead is at the end of the course for you as you finish - put your dog on lead and clear the finish as soon as you can, as there will be another dog coming through straight away. And don't forget: lots of praise for your dog and thank the judge too. You can go to the score table (usually by the ring) to see how you've done, although if you are eliminated, they will not record your time. Don't despair if you don't go clear: no one has 100% success rate, whatever level they compete at, or how much experience they have. Try to take something positive out of every run, even if it's gone drastically wrong.

Warning

Be careful: Agility can be seriously addictive. You may start out as a "just for fun handler", and before you know it, you've got eight dogs, a van and a caravan, your holiday is all taken up by shows and most of your salary goes on entry fees. Agility is a fun, very social and rewarding sport - enjoy it!

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